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How to Knit a Sweater: 7 Free Sweater Patterns

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Rollergirl55
"I am in desperate need of some help. I was very close to finishing the Madison Shawl Knitting Pattern when I knew that I made a mistake on Row 2 but could not figure how I made the mistake. Instead of ending up with only 3 stitches at the end of Row 2, I ended up with 4. I didnt know what to do so I got rid of the extra stitch by doing this yo, s, s k2 pass the 2 slipped stitches over. Of course, this did not work out.br /I followed the directions and cast on 135 stitches.br /Row 1 says to purl the entire row. 135 stitches remain.br /Row 2 says to Knit the first 2 stitches, then yo, skpo and repeat the sequence between the s until there are 3 stitches remaining.br /My Problembr /When I finished the last sequence of yo, skpo, there were 4 stitches remaining, not 3.br /On the last 3 stitches you are supposed to do yo, sk2po (thus using up the 3 remaining stitches). But there is still 1 stitch remaining on the left needle, when there should be none left. I unravelled 4 balls worth of knitting and started over. I followed the instructions, counting my 135 stitches after casting on and completing Row 1, purling the whole row.br /I continued on to Row 2, following the directions exactly. As I finished the last sequence of yo, sKpo, I still had 4 stitches remaining instead of 3 on my left needle.br /I have gone over this pattern again and again. I finally decided to write down the number of stitches as if I were knitting the pattern, and still, I end up with 4 stitches remaining at the end of Row 2! I cant continue on with this pattern until someone tells me what I am doing wrong. I bought the wool indicated in the pattern, which was very expensive, now Im stuck because I cant finish Row 2 properly. If anyone understands what I am trying to explain, can you please advise me as to what I am doing wrong? I would love to keep working on this shawl, but I cant continue and its driving me insane. The wool is beginning to look raggedy from all of the knitting, unravelling, knitting, recounting, etc.br /I am desperate, so any advice offered to correct my work will be greatly appreciated.br /Thank You."
anneknighten 5750510
"BO means bind off."

No Seams Baby Cardi

No Seams Baby Cardi
No Seams Baby Cardi
This image courtesy of yarnspirations.com

Cute, warm, and seamless what more could you ask for? The No Seams Baby Cardi is the perfect project for your next knitting adventure. This adorable baby cardigan pattern has buttons all the way down and long sleeves that will keep baby's arms nice and cozy. The pattern includes instructions for both girls' and boys' versions, as well as sizing up to 24 months. You'll love this knitting this pattern almost as much as your baby loves wearing it.

Intermediate

Knitting Needle Size5 or 3.75 mm, 6 or 4 mm, Circular Knitting Needles, Double-Pointed Knitting Needles (DPNs)

Yarn Weight(3) Light/DK (21-24 stitches to 4 inches)

Materials:
 

  • Bernat® Cotton-ish™ by Vickie Howell (70 g/2.4 oz; 258 m/282 yds)
  • Sizes 6 12 18 24 mos
  • Cotton Gin (85315) 1 2 2 2 ball(s)
  • Sizes 3.75 mm (U.S. 5) and 4 mm (U.S. 6) circular knitting needles 24" [60 cm] long
  • Sets of four sizes 3.75 mm (U.S. 5) and 4 mm (U.S. 6) double-pointed knitting needles or size needed to obtain gauge
  • 5 buttons
  • 4 stitch markers

No Seams Baby Cardi Chart

GAUGE
22 sts and 28 rows = 4" [10 cm] with larger needles in stocking stitch

ABBREVIATIONS

Alt = Alternate(ing)
Beg = Beginning
Cont = Continue(ity)
Dec = Decrease(ing)
Inc = Increase(ing)
K = Knit
K2tog = Knit next 2 stitches together
M1 = Make 1 stitch by picking up horizontal loop lying before next stitch and knitting into back of loop
P = Purl
Pm = Place marker
Rem = Remaining
Rep = Repeat
Rnd(s) = Round(s)
RS = Right side
St(s) = Stitch(es)
WS = Wrong side
Yo = Yarn over

SIZES
To fit chest measurement
6 mos 17" [43 cm]
12 mos 18" [45.5 cm]
18 mos 19" [48 cm]
24 mos 21" [53.5 cm]

Finished chest
6 mos 22 1/2" [57 cm]
12 mos 24" [61 cm]
18 mos 25 1/2" [65 cm]
24 mos 27" [68.5 cm]

INSTRUCTIONS
The instructions are written for smallest size. If changes are necessary for larger sizes the instructions will be written thus ( ). When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. For ease in working, circle all numbers pertaining to your size.

Body
Note: Garment is worked from neck edge down. When yoke is complete, body is joined in one piece and worked in rows. Sleeves are worked in rnds on double-pointed needles.

With smaller circular needle, cast on 60 (64-64-72) sts. Do not join in rnd, working back and forth across needle, proceed as follows:

Girl's Version only: Work 4 rows in stocking st.
Next row: (RS). (Picot row). K1. *yo. K2tog. Rep from * to last st. K1.
Beg with a purl row, work 5 rows in stocking st.

Boy's Version only: Knit 5 rows (garter st), noting 1st row is WS.

Both Versions: Change to larger circular needle and proceed as follows, noting "Inc 1" will be worked for Girl's Version as yo and for Boy's Version as M1.

1st row: (RS). K10 (11-11-13). "Inc 1". K10. "Inc 1". K20 (22-22-26). "Inc 1". K10. "Inc 1". K10 (11-11-13). 64 (68-
68-76) sts.
2nd and alt rows: Purl.
3rd row: K10 (11-11-13). "Inc 1". K1 (pm on last st). "Inc 1". K10. "Inc 1". K1 (pm on last st). "Inc 1". K20 (22-
22-26). "Inc 1". K1 (pm on last st). "Inc 1". K10. "Inc 1". K1 (pm on last st). "Inc 1". K10 (11-11-13). 72 (76-76-84) sts.
5th row: *Knit to marked st. "Inc 1". K1 (marked st). "Inc 1". Rep from * 3 times more. Knit to end of row.
6th row: Purl.
Rep last 2 rows 15 (16-17-18) times more. 200 (212-220-236) sts.

Divide for Body and Sleeves: Next row: (RS). K29 (31-32-35) for left front. Cast on 4 sts. Slip next 42 (44-46-48) sts onto length of yarn for left sleeve. K58 (62-64-70) for back. Cast on 4 sts. Slip next 42 (44-46-48) sts onto length of yarn for right sleeve. K29 (31-32-35) for right front. 124 (132-136-148) sts for Body.

Cont even in stocking st until work from dividing row measures 6 (7-7 1/2-8)" [15 (18-19-20.5) cm], ending with a purl row.

Change to smaller circular needle and proceed as follows:

Girl's Version only: Work 4 rows in stocking st.
Next row: (RS). (Picot row). K1. *yo. K2tog. Rep from * to last st. K1.
Beg with a purl row, work 5 rows in stocking st. Cast off.

Boy's Version only: Knit 5 rows (garter st). Cast off knitwise (WS).

Sleeves
With RS facing and set of four larger double-pointed needles, K42 (44-46-48) for sleeve. Pick up and knit 4 sts at underarm. Divide sts onto 3 needles. Join in rnd. Place marker after 2nd cast on st for beg of rnd. 46 (48-50-52) sts.

Knit in rnds, dec 1 st at beg and end of 6th rnd and every following 6th (8th-8th-8th) rnd to 42 (44-44-44) sts, then every following 4th (6th-6th-6th) rnd to 32 (34-36-36) sts.

Cont even until work from dividing rnd measures 6 (7 1/2-8-9)" [15 (19-20.5-23) cm].

Change to smaller double-pointed needles and proceed as follows:

Girl's Version only: Knit 4 rnds.
Next rnd: (Picot rnd). *yo. K2tog. Rep from * around.
Knit 4 rnds. Cast off.

Boy's Version only: Next rnd: Knit.
Next rnd: Purl.
Rep last 2 rnds twice more. Cast off.

FINISHING
Pin garment to measurements. Cover with a damp cloth, leaving cloth to dry.

Girl's Version only: Fold neckband and cuffs to WS along picot row and sew in position.

Both Versions: Buttonhole band: With RS facing and smaller circular needle, pick up and knit 60 (68-72-76) sts up right front for Girl's Version or down left front for Boy's Version.

Girl's Version only: Purl 1 row.
Next row: (Buttonhole row). (RS). K3. *Cast off 2 sts.
K11 (13-14-15). Rep from * 3 times more. Cast off 2 sts. K3.
Next row: Purl, casting on 2 sts over cast off sts.
Work 2 rows in stocking st.
Next row: (Picot row). K1. *yo. K2tog. Rep from * to last st. K1.
Beg with a purl row, work 2 rows in stocking st.

Next row: (Buttonhole row). (WS). P3. *Cast off 2 sts. P11 (13-14-15). Rep from * 3 times more. Cast off 2 sts. P3.
Next row: Knit, casting on 2 sts over cast off sts.
Work 2 rows in stocking st.
Cast off.
Fold front band to WS along picot row and sew cast off edge in position, matching buttonholes.

Boy's Version only: Knit 3 rows (garter st).
Next row: (Buttonhole row). (RS). K3. *Cast off 2 sts. K11 (13-14-15). Rep from * 3 times more. Cast off 2 sts. K3.
Next row: Knit, casting on 2 sts over cast off sts.
Knit 3 rows. Cast off.

Both Versions: Button band: With RS facing and smaller circular needle, pick up and knit 60 (68-72-76) sts down left front for Girl's Version or up right front for Boy's Version.
Work as given for buttonhole band, omitting references to buttonholes.
Sew on buttons to correspond to buttonholes.

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This is definitely going on my to do list. First of all the pattern us right up front. No need to go hunting for it. Sevond ly, there are noth male and female versions. Lastly it comes in a variety of sizes. It's just an all around compete project for me.

there is no picture on the pattern

Hello mrscp1946, there was a temporary glitch in our system and the photo for this pattern was removed. It has now been restored. Our apologies for the inconvenience. -Editors of AllFreeKnitting

As soon as I saw seams free I had to look at this pattern. I have made two seams free sweaters already and it is easier for me. This is a different pattern and I like the fact it offers different options. I have been making a lot of baby clothes and this will be added to the list. This can be done using different colors as well. The little ones like all the different colors to look at. Thank you.

This little sweater is a true classic. I remember my mom knitting raglan sleeved sweaters for numerous new babies. The best part of a raglan is there are no uncomfortable bulky seams found in a raglan. The second best part is finishing the sweater is a breeze since there are only a few ends to weave in once the knitting is done.

I made the boys, my first sweater, but did the sleeve edges in ribbing. I wish I had done the collar longer and in ribbing as well as the bottom as it has a tendancy to curl up.

Please give directions for sizes 2 and 3 toddler.

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