Bright and Breezy Kimono


Take your lounging look to the next level with the Bright and Breezy Kimono. Youll look like a graceful star with this light sweater draped over your shoulders. Created by knitting a series of squares and then sewing them together, this knit sweater pattern is easily mastered by knitters of almost all skill levels. A unique eyelet pattern makes this a great sweater for spring and autumn days when the temperature is a little lower on the scale.


Knitting Needle Size7 or 4.5 mm

Yarn Weight(4) Medium Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches)

Finished bust measurement
S/M - 40 ins [101.5 cm]
L/XL - 45 ins [114.5 cm]
XXL - 50 ins [127 cm]

Finished chest measurment
S/M - 20 ins [51 cm]
L/XL - 21 ins [53.5 cm]
XXL - 22 ins [56 cm]


  • Main Color (MC) Caron Simply Soft (4.00 oz / 113 g and 208 yd / 190 m): Strawberry (0015) 4 (4, 5)
  • One pair size U.S. 7 (4.5mm) straight needles or size to obtain gauge.
  • Size 8 (5mm) circular needle, 32”/73.5cm long


In Eyelet Pattern using smaller needle, 13 sts and 14 rows = 4”/10cm.


Garter stitch (garter st):
Knit every row.

Eyelet Pattern (multiple of 2 sts + 1):
Row 1 (RS): K2, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.
Rows 2 and 4: Purl.
Row 3: K1, *ssk, yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Rep Rows 1-4 for Eyelet patt


Circular needle in larger size is used to accommodate the large number of sts when knitting the front band. Do not join stitches into a circle but work back and forth in rows.

With larger circular needle, loosely CO 65 (73, 81) sts. Do not join.
Knit 6 rows for garter st.

Change to smaller straight needles and work Eyelet patt as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K2, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.
Rows 2 and 4: Purl.
Row 3: K1, *ssk, yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Rep Rows 1-4 for Eyelet patt until piece measures 20 (21, 22)”/51 (53.5, 56)cm from CO edge, ending with a WS row.
BO all sts loosely in knit.

FRONTS (make 2)
With larger circular needle, loosely CO 25 (29, 33) sts. Do not join.
Knit 6 rows for garter st.

Change to smaller straight needles and work in Eyelet patt until piece measures same as Back to shoulder, ending with a WS row.
BO all sts loosely in knit.

SLEEVES (make 2)
With larger circular needle, loosely CO 65 (65, 65) sts.
Knit 6 rows f or garter st.
Change to smaller straight needles and work in Eyelet patt until piece measures 12”/30.5cm from CO edge.
BO all sts loosely in knit.

Block pieces to measurements.
Join shoulders leaving center 5 ½ (6, 6 ½)”/14 (15, 16.5) cm on center of Back open for neck. Placing center of top of Sleeve at shoulder seam, sew in Sleeves. Sew side and Sleeve seams.

Frontbands and Neckband
Using larger circular needle, beg at bottom of Right Front, pick up and k67 (71, 75) sts along Right Front to shoulder, 19 (21, 23) sts across Back neck opening and 67 (71, 75) sts along Left Front to bottom—153 (163, 173) sts. Do not join. Work in garter st until band measures 3 (3, 3 ½)”/7. (7.5, 9)cm.
BO all sts loosely.
Using yarn needle, weave in all ends.

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Love this pattern!

I have tried different size needles and can not match the gauge. I'm using Caron simply soft yarn too. On the yarn it states 18 sts 28 rows for 4 x4 in using US 8, this pattern only says 13 sts and 14 rows? Mine comes out to 3 inches wide by 2 inches tall in a 13 sts 14 row pattern using US8. Even in a US 10.5 it only comes out 4 inch wide and 3 inch tall. So how is it so different? If I use a US 8 and (by the yarn gauge) 18 sts and 28 rows it comes out to 4 inch by 4inch in the eyelet pattern?

The yarn wrapper gauge is usually in stockinette, this pattern specifically states in Eyelet Pattern meaning NOT in stockinette but using the stitch pattern of this particular pattern R1 K2, yo, k2tog rep from to last st, k1. R2 Purl. R3 K1, ssk, yo rep from to last 2 sts, k2. R4 Purl

I did use the eyelet patter for the gauge, it didn't work out to 4" x4" at all. I used 18 sts and 24 rows in the eyelet pattern and I DID get the 4" x 4". I had to adjust the CO to 99 sts to get the 50 in width. I am at 24 rows and it is 4 inches tall.

Pardon my saying so, you must be a very tight knitter, it happens, it takes some time and experience to relax the stitches while knitting. I have two suggestions for you, the first one is to try knitting your swatch, then blocking it before checking your gauge, acrylic yarns can be some what unpredictable and can change between knitting and finishing. Blocking the swatch will give a truly accurate measurement. My other suggestion is to change yarns, not all yarns are created equal, even in the same weight category, since yarn weight is determined by WPI and can vary significantly because of the built in variance. I had a student a few years ago, that had the same issue and had to use #5 bulky for most patterns that called for #4 worsted weight yarn. Hope this helps someone, happy knitting.

This is my first project that uses blocking. It says to block to measurements. I don't know what measurements. ?

The pattern is instructing you to block the garment to the finished measurements given at the beginning of the pattern. MEASUREMENTS Finished bust measurement S/M - 40 ins 101.5 cm L/XL - 45 ins 114.5 cm XXL - 50 ins 127 cm Finished chest measurment S/M - 20 ins 51 cm L/XL - 21 ins 53.5 cm XXL - 22 ins 56 cm You will need to keep in mind that this is an acrylic yarn, so blocking an acrylic is never very effective and it does not last long. I've made several of these in cotton, so blocking is quite effective, since it is a natural fiber.

Hello. I will like to save this pattern very cute but cant find the save pattern button

You can use the right button on your mouse to print it. If you have a .pdf program of any kind you can adjust the margins, I use .5 on both sides gives a nicer clean finish, and save your file that way else you can simple print to printer at that point. good luck. I love this pattern also, have fun

The save button is immediately above the picture of the project.

This is a very cute sweater. It has a very feminine look with the stitch used to make it. I love that shade of strawberry yarn. What a great accessory this will be to wear during the chillier mornings or to keep available to throw over your shoulders if you go into a cooler air conditioned room.

Could you please explain the ssk in the eyelet pattern being a new knitter I look for the explanation of any abbreviation in the pattern but cannot see one for this. Please explain. Thank you cant wait to start as I love it.

Hi hlynch779, ssk stands for "slip slip knit." Here's a link to a helpful video tutorial: -Editors of AllFreeKnitting

Is 12Inches right for the sleeve measurement of eyelet pattern ftom CO?

The 12 inches for the sleeve is correct. this type of sleeve is called a drop sleeve, what that means is that, the shoulder seam will drop a bit from the shoulder adding length to the sleeve after finishing.

This looks like a fairly simple pattern. I would not bind off at the end, just keep the stitches on a stitch holder. It is easier to put the pieces together and it looks neater. A kimono like this one will add to many outfits and it should knit up fast. It is a simple eyelet pattern so it should not be hard to do. I can't wait to make it. Thank you.

I made this sweater this spring in a cotton/acrylic blend and it is bunny-soft and so comfortable! You do have to watch the ends of the rows, to be sure you do the last YO to keep the stitch count right.

There are no yo's at the end of any of the rows, every row of this pattern ends in a knit or purl stitch. I only mention it because new knitters use these comments to help them through projects and this could cause a significant amount of confusion.

What a sweet pattern! I like that it has a squarish tale in that it's impossible to find one in the store and that's exactly what I need. I've never knitted with circular needles before but I'm up this new adventure. This will be a head turner indeed! Wow, it'll be fun to decide the color...or two...or three.

I am having a terrible time with the eyelet pattern. I start out with 65 and I am extremely careful with each row in the eyelet pattern, but at the end of each row, I seem to be a 63, then 62, etc. Please help.

When you are losing stitches in an eyelet pattern, it's always best to look to your yo. A yo between k2tog's is a lot harder than it looks, I tell my new knitters to use markers every set of pattern stitches. Which in this case would be every 2 stitches until they have the pattern established, so about 5 to 10 rows. If you don't have a bunch of markers, the inexpensive packages of safety pins from the dollar store work great as markers. Hope this helps, happy knitting.

Gorgeous kimono pattern. I especially like that it is oversized when completed. The instructions are easy to follow use of a row counter assists greatly in keeping track of pattern stitch rows. In addition to saving time to knit your project. Customize your design by selecting your specific type of yarn and color.

I have done this pattern easily. When I wear it, people in the stores talk to me about it because they love it. So this year, I am starting a new one with another colour. Thank you for such a lovely pattern.

Another neat cardigan - I have to win a large LARGE lottery if I am ever to complete the items on my to-knit list. At least if I were to win a lottery I could hire a team of knitters and put them to work knitting my favourites from -- the list grows daily and I should greatly like to see them knit and ready to wear

I'm knitting the smallest size and cast in 65 stitches. Every few rows I seem to be reducing the number of stitches. I can't work out the mistake. I understood the back should remain 65 stitches. Am I missing some yarn overs?

For every decrease in this pattern-ssk and k2tog, there is an increase yo-you should never be doing any increase or decrease without doing the other to maintain the stitch count each row. I know it's late, hope it helps someone.

I was having the same problem, then I realised it was row 3 it states k1ssk yo. But then I realised if I did k1 yo ssk yo then it worked out fine.

Yes, please note that this has a 4 row pattern. Row 1 you knit 2 together (thus reducing by 1 stitch) repeating across the row. Row 3 you are doing a ssk (slip stitch, slip stitch, and then knit 1 stitch across the row, this keeps the number of stitches consistent through out. - You are never really decreasing or increasing the pattern, just making a nice eyelet (hole).

Could I double check the measurements please? It's giving finished bust measurements as 40", 45" and 50", but the int's showing 'Chest'measurements in the 20" range. That's a mistake surely? Is it supposed to be the finished length? It looks a lovely pattern, but I'd like to be sure before i start on it.

That is a mistake on here, you are correct it's supposed to be finished bust and length-I just verified it on the caron website because I wanted to verify the yarn amounts.

Pretty sweater is just the thing to take the chill off a Spring or Summer evening. It should work up quickly and the eyelet pattern is easy to memorize and follow.


I am using the yarn stated. Gauge is corect for sts /inch at 13 sts = 4"; but row gauge is working out to 16 rows = 2.25"; not 14 rows = 4" as stated gauge on pattern. Is row gauge correct as stated? If so how can sts per inch be corect but rows per inch be so off?

I can't wait to cast on this sweater! It looks like the perfect sweater to relax in on a summer evening.

Can't wait to get started, this will be for me.

Where is the construction chart for this?

The original pattern did not include a construction chart, so we are unable to include one in our reproduction of the pattern. Sorry about any inconvenience this might cause! Editors of AllFreeKnitting

What is the yardage required for the Bright and Breezy kimono pattern please.

We've updated the pattern to include the yardage of the recommended yarn. Most sizes require 832 yards of yarn, but the largest size calls for 1,040 yards. Editors of AllFreeKnitting

The construction chart has nothing to do with this pattern, it appears to be an error. I just finished this and it is awesome!

I don't understand this pattern. It doesn't explain how many squares to make and the construction pattern doesn't make sense to me. I am not an advanced knitter so I would like this explained to me as I would like to knit this sweater. Thank you

There are no squares to make please use the eyelet pattern for your reference rather than a construction chart Remember is you need to make it shorter or taller to increase or decrease by rows only Also if you need to make it bigger then you increase the number of stitches by and rows one pattern according to your gauge as instructed this will increase or decrease your finished pattern size by inches longer and wider or shorter and narrower Remember to adjust your pattern pieces accordingly - if you change the back besure to change the front as well If you need extra length for the sleeve adjust both sleeves accordingly or shorter as needed this adjusts the area inside of the bands You may need an additional skein of yarn so you do not run short It is not hard to do just take your time and think itRead More thru Good luck to all it is a beautiful pattern

I'm also confused by the construction chart.

I'm confused by the construction chart. It doesn't look like it goes witht his pattern. Also...what is the "chest" in the finished chest measurement?

I am not quite sure how to read the linked construction chart. What do the numbered squares indicate?

I noticed there were some details missing from the pattern, like which yarn to use. I looked it up on the website and its Caron Simply Soft-great yarn. So glad you put this up today, I think I finally found the pattern to bust that part of my stash on! thanx.


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