Marble & Bricks Back Pack
This versatile and customizable knit mini backpack pattern is sure to be your new go-to bag!
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The Marble & Bricks Back Pack should excite you for two reasons. Firstly, the construction is amazing and looks perfect to use as a purse or as a tote. Secondly, there is a ton that you can do to customize this knit backpack pattern to make it entirely your own.
Lined with fabric, your bag will maintain its integrity and be protected from spills or other accidents, and straps reinforced with metal clasps will keep your bag from snapping at the seams. If you're looking for the best knit backpack pattern with which to start your next project, look no further than here.
This incredible pattern is fifth in a series of printable patterns we're releasing to celebrate AllFreeKnitting's 10th birthday!
Check out the rest here!
Be sure to head on over to Rachel Hill's blog for the full pattern, too!
What You Need:
Needles: 6.5 mm, 32” - 48” circular needles, Or sizeneeded to achieve gauge. (48” if you prefer a magicloop style of knitting)
Yarn:Weight 6 Super Bulky Yarn. Sample knit in Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick. 175 yrds MC, 100 yrds AC
Optional Hardware: fastenings to close the flap: buttons, snaps, or a buckle. Hardware to attach the straps: d-rings, d-ring clips, etc. see notes.
Box Stitch (base and flap): 11 sts/20 rows =4”
Beaded Rib Stitch (main body): 14 sts/18.5 rows= 4”
Finished Bag Size:
laid flat: 12” tall, 13” at widest base.
CO: cast on
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
AC: accent color (base and flap)
MC: main color (body)
Sl1kw: slip one knitwise. Slip right-hand needle into the st on the left-hand needle like you are goingto knit it. Without knitting it, simply slip it to the right-hand needle. Continue knitting as usual.
Sl1wyib: slip one with yarn in back. With the yarn in back as if you were about to knit, slip the next st from the left needle to the right one knitwise, leaving it unworked, then continue knitting as normal
Sl1wyif: slip one with yarn in front. With the yarn in the front as if you about to purl, slip the next st from the left needle to theright one purlwise, leaving it unworked, then continue knitting as normal
SM: stitch marker
BO: bind off
- I used snaps to fasten my bag closed, but there are many different methods for closing the bag such as buttons or buckles. You can also choose to not fasten the flap at all as the drawstring keeps the bag closed.
- You can sew your straps directly to the book bag, but using hardware such as d-rings and d-ring clips will make your back pack straps adjustable. Also, you can change the straps to make the back pack into a sling bag or a purse if you use clips. You can find these types of hardware at most crafting stores or on Amazon.
CO 28 sts with AC
Row 1: *k2, p2* rep * * across
Row 2: *k2, p2* rep * * across
Row 3: *p2, k2* rep * * across
Row 4: *p2, k2* rep * * across
Row 5 - Row 20: rep Rows 1 - 4
You should have an approx. 10” x 4” rectangle.
Row 21: k across, when you get to the end, turn your piece and working down the side, pick up and knit 20 sts (one for each Row), turn and pick up and knit 28 sts across the bottom of the rectangle, and then 20 sts up the right side for 96 sts on your needles. Connect to knit in the round. Place a sm to show the beginning of the round.
Round 22: *k2, p2* rep * * around
Round 23: *k2, p2* rep * * around
Round 24: *p2, k2* rep * * around
Round 25: *p2, k2* rep * * around
Round 26 - Round 37: rep Round 22 - Round 25
Round 38: change to MC, k around increasing evenly 4 sts (one on each side), 100 sts total
Round 39: *p2, k1, p1, k1* rep * * around
Round 40: *p2, k3* rep * * around
Round 41 - Round 66: Rep Round 43 - 44
Round 67: change to AC, k all sts decreasing the row by 4 sts evenly. You should have 96 sts again.
Round 68: *k2, p2* rep * * around
Round 69:*k2, p2* rep * * around
Round 70:*p2, k2* rep * * around
Round 71:*p2, k2* rep * * around
You will now be knitting back and forth in rows to create the flap for the bag.
Row 1: *k2, p2* x7, BO remaining sts until just your last BO st is on your needles with the 28 beginning sts.
Row 2 (RS): k the first st of this row then pass the last BO st over the st to finish BO, p2, *k2, p2* rep * * across.
Row 3: *p2, k2* rep * * across
Row 4: sl1kw, p1, k2, *p2, k2* rep * * across to last 4 sts, p2, k1, sl1kw
Row 5: p1, k1, p2, *k2, p2* rep * * across
Row 6: sl1kw, k1, p2, *k2, p2* rep * * across to last 4 sts, k2, p1, sl1kw
Row 7: *p2, k2* rep * * across to last 4 sts, p2, k1,p1
Row 8: sl1kw, p1, k2, *p2, k2* rep * * across to last 4 sts, p2, k1, sl1kw
Row 9 - Row 16: rep Rows 5 - 8
Row 17: p1, p2tog, p1, *k2, p2* rep * * across to last 4 sts, k1, k2tog, p1
Row 18: sl1kw, *p2, k2* rep * * across to last st, sl1kw
Row 19: p1, k2tog, *p2, k2* rep * * across to the last 3sts, p2tog, k1
Row 20: sl1kw, k1, *p2, k2* rep * * across to last 2 sts, p1, sl1kw
Row 21: p1, k2tog, k1, *p2, k2* rep * * across tolast 4 sts, p1, p2tog, p1
Row 22: sl1kw, *k2, p2* rep * * across to last st,sl1kw
Row 23: p1, p2tog, *k2, p2* rep * * across to last 3 sts, k2tog, p1
Row 24: sl1kw, p1, *k2, p2* rep * * to last 2sts, k1, sl1kw
Row 25: p1, p2tog, p1, *k2, p2* rep * * across to last 4 sts, k1, k2tog, p1
Row 26: sl1kw, *p2, k2* rep * * across to last st, sl1kw
Row 27: p1, k2tog, *p2, k2* rep * * across to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1
Row 28: sl1kw, k1, *p2, k2* rep * * across to last 2 sts, p1, sl1kw
Row 29: p1, k2tog, k1, *p2, k2* rep * * across to last 4sts, p1, p2tog, p1
Straps (make 2):
The straps are created using slipped stitches, which makes a sturdy and less stretchy fabric.
With MC CO 6 sts
Row 1: *s1wyib, k1* x2, sl1wyib, sl1wyib
Row 2: p2, sl1wyif, p1, sl1wyif, p1
Cont. Rows 1 - 2 until straps are the length you want. For my bag, I made my straps 28” long. But, you might prefer shorter or longer straps.
● If you do not want to use hardware, you should use the flap to center and sew your straps to you bag. Use a ruler to place your straps about the same distance apart as the sides of the flap as shown in the picture.
● If you are using hardware, sew the ends of the strap to the d-ring clips and sew the d-rings of the hardware to theback of the bag using the flap and ruler to guide you. With the use of hardware, you can change the back pack into a purse.
- Take a long strand of each color (at least 50”) and holding the ends together, fasten the end to something sturdy. Twist the 2 strands together like you are braiding them until they start to twist back on themselves and you have about 42” of cord. Tie a knot on both ends. The cord will untwist into a nice 2 toned drawstring.
- Fold your bag like the picture. The bag will naturally want to fold in on the sides.
- From the back, poke both ends of the drawstring through the bag.
- Pull the drawstrings through both sides of the corners of the fold.
- Push both ends of the drawstring through the front at about the same place as it went through at the back.
CO 4 sts
Row 1: sl1wyib, k1, sl1wyib, sl1wyib
Row 2: p2, sl1wyif, p1
Row 3 - Row 24: rep Rows 1 - 2
Sew the loop onto the back of the bag in the center above the MC.
I used snaps to fasten my bags flap, but you can use a buckle or buttons for your closure.
After you have the drawstring through, you can feel free to add a lining to your bag if you’d like. I made my lining with a base that was 9.5” x 3.5”, 2 side panels that were 4” x 9”, and 2 front/back panels of 9.5” x 9”.
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