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This lace knitting pattern is perfect for summer and spring. Exceptionally lightweight, the Cancun Spa Tunic includes sizes for small up to X-Large. Rows of knit lace and a playful neckline make this pattern best suited for experienced knitters. This beautiful, cream-colored knit tunic pattern is great for island getaways and other tropical destinations.

Cancun Spa Tunic
Cancun Spa Tunic
This image courtesy of Naturallycaron.com

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Knitting Needle Size: 6 or 4 mm, 7 or 4.5 mm, Circular Knitting Needles

Yarn Weight: (4) Medium Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches)

Notes

 

If you like the Cancun Spa Tunic, You'll love the Aspira One Button Tunic!
 

MATERIALS

  • (75% Microdenier Acrylic/25% Bamboo); #0007 Naturally: 4(5, 5, 6) skeins
  • One pair size U.S. 6 (4mm) straight needles or size needed to obtain gauge.
  • One size U.S. 7 (4.5mm) circular needle, 24”/61cm long
  • One size E4 (3.5mm) crochet hook
  • Stitch markers
  • One stitch holder
  • Yarn needle

SIZES: Small (Medium, Large, X-Large)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bust: 36 (40, 44, 48)”/91.5 (101.5, 112, 122)cm
Length: 28 (28 ½, 29, 29 ½)”/71 (72.5, 73.5, 75)cm

GAUGE
In Body Patt with smaller needles, 22 sts and 28 rows = 4”/10cm

SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
sl 2-k1-psso: Slip 2 sts as if to work k2tog-k1-pass 2 slipped sts together over the k1 – double dec made.

STITCHES USED
Body Pattern (panels of 19 sts):
Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, sl 2-k1-psso, yo, ssk, k4, yo, k2.
Row 2 and following WS rows: Purl.
Row 3: K3, yo, k2, k3tog, yo, k3, yo, (sl 1 as if to pl, k2tog, psso – alternate double dec made), k2, yo, k3.
Row 5: K4, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, sl 2-k1-psso, k1, yo, ssk, k1, yo, k4.
Row 7: K5, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, sl 2-k1-psso, k1, yo, ssk, yo, k5.
Row 9: K3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, sl 2-k1-psso, k2, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3.

Row 11: K2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k1, sl 2-k1-psso, k1, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k2.
Row 13: K1, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, sl 2-k1-psso, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k1.
Row 14: Purl.
Rep Rows 1-14 for body patt.


BACK
With larger needles, CO 199 (199, 243, 243) sts.
 

Border:
Row 1 (RS): *K1, yo, k9, sl 2-k1-psso, k9, yo; rep from * across, ending k1.
Row 2: P2, * k19, p3; rep from * across, ending k19, p2.
Row 3: K2, *yo, k8, sl 2- k1-psso, k8, yo **, sl 2-k1-psso; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, k2 – 183 (183, 223, 223) sts.
Row 4: *P3, k17; rep from * across, ending p3.
Row 5: *K3, yo, k7, sl 2-k1-psso, k7, yo; rep from * across, ending k3.
Row 6: P4, *k15, p5; rep from * across, ending k15, p4.
Row 7: K4, *yo, k6, sl 2-k1-psso, k6, yo **, k1, sl 2-k1-psso, k1; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, k4 – 167 (167, 203, 203) sts.
Row 8: *P5, k13; rep from * across, ending p5.
Row 9: *K5, yo, k5, sl 2-k1-psso, k5, yo; rep from * across, ending k5.
Row 10: P6, *k11, p7; rep from * across, ending k11, p6.
Row 11: K6, *yo, k4, sl 2-k1-psso, k4, yo **, k2, sl 2-k1-psso, k2; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, k6 – 151 (151, 183, 183) sts.
Row 12: *P7, k9; rep from * across, ending p7.
Row 13: *K7, yo, k3, sl 2-k1-psso, k3, yo; rep from * across, ending k7.
Row 14: P8, *k7, p9; rep from * across, ending k7, p8.
Row 15: K8, *yo, k2, sl 2-k1-psso, k2, yo **, k3, sl 2-k1-psso, k3; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, k8 – 135 (135, 163, 163) sts.
Row 16: P9, *k5, p9; rep from * across.
Row 17: *K9, yo, k1, sl 2-k1-psso, k1, yo; rep from * across, ending k9.
Row 18: P10, *k3, p11; rep from * across, ending k3, p10.
Row 19: K10, *yo, sl 2-k1-psso, yo **, k4, sl 2-k1-psso, k4; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, k10 – 119 (119,

143, 143) sts.
Change to smaller needles.
 

Est patt:
Set-up Row: P14, *place marker (pm), p19, pm, p5; rep from * across for 2 (2, 3, 3) times more, pm, p19, pm, p14.
Row 1 (RS): K14 for St st, *Body Pat Row 1 over 19 sts, k5 for St st; rep from * across, ending Body Pat Row 1 over 19 sts, k14 for St st.
Row 2: Purl across.
Row 3: Dec 1 st each edge, cont in est pat across.
Cont est patt, dec 1 st each edge every 8th (16th, 8th, 16th) row for 10 (5, 10, 5) times more – 97 (107, 121, 131) sts.
Work even until 20” from beg, ending WS.


Armhole Shaping
BO 5 (6, 7, 8) at beg of the next 2 rows—87 (95, 107, 115) sts. Keeping to est patt, dec 1 st each edge every RS row 7 (9, 12, 13) times. Work even on rem 73 (77, 83, 89) sts until piece from beg measures 28 (28 ½, 29, 29 ½)”, ending WS. BO all sts knitwise.


FRONT
Work as for Back until piece from beg measures 18 (18 ½, 19, 19 ½)”, ending WS.


V-Neck Shaping
Next row (RS): Patt across 48 (53, 60, 65) sts and place on holder for left front, work next 2 sts tog, then work in patt to end of row.


Right Front: Purl across 48 (53, 60, 65) right front sts.
Dec row (RS): K1, ssk, pat to end.
Rep Dec row every RS row 13 times more then dec every 4th row 8 times; at the same time when the piece measures same as Back to underarm, shape armhole same as on Back--14 (16, 19, 22) sts rem. Work even until same length as Back, ending WS. BO all sts knitwise.


Left Front: With WS facing, join yarn and purl across 48 (53, 60, 65) left front sts from holder.
Dec row (RS): Patt across to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Complete as for right front.

 

FINISHING
Join shoulder seams.


Armbands
With RS facing and smaller needles, pick up and k 92 (98, 104, 108) sts along armhole edge. Knit 2 rows. BO knitwise on WS. Join side seams.

Neckband
Rnd 1: With RS facing and crochet hook, beg at right side of back neck, work 45 sc to shoulder, work 51 sc evenly spaced along left front edge, sc in st from holder, 51 sc along right neck edge, join with sl st in first sc—148 sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc as joining, sc2tog, sc in 39 sc, sc2tog, sc in 43 sc on back neck; sc in 50 sc, sc3tog, sc in 50 sc; join with sl st in first sc – 144 sc. Join.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same sc as joining and next 42 sc, sc in 49 sc, sc3tog, sc in 49 sc, join with sl st in first sc – 142 sc.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same sc as joining and next 42 sc, sc in 48 sc, sc3tog (pm on sc3tog), sc in 48 sc, join with sl st in first sc – 140 sts. Fasten off.


With WS facing, join yarn with slip st in 2nd st to right of marked st. Ch 3, sl st in same sc as joining, sl st in next st, in next st (sl st, ch 3, sl st – picot made), sl st in next st, picot in next st. * Sl st in next 5 sc, (picot in next st, sl st in next st) twice, picot in next st; rep from * around, ending sl st in last 5 sc before beginning picot. Fasten off.
Using yarn needle, weave in ends.

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I am trying to make size large, I cast on 199, when I start at the set up row, it says to p14, then 19, then 5, then to repeat this 2 times more, that only equals to 86 stitches, when I continue the established stiches to the end just in case it was a misprint, it does not work out evenly, I do p19, but there is waaay more than 14 left to pearl. is there a misprint in this pattern for the cast on or est pattern row? Or, am I misreading or doing something wrong?

I would like to make this sweater in a different yarn but cannot find the yardage for the suggested yarn. Can anyone help me? Thank you!

The yarn originally used in this pattern is out of stock, but we were able to find that it had 251 yards in a skein. You can multiply 251 by the number of skeins required for the size you would like to make to get the correct yardage. Editors of AllFreeKnitting

my pic will be uploaded soon, I hope. Used the yarn in a paler green. Love it! Get so many comments. I don't like to sew things together, so I changed the pattern and knit it in the round up to the armholes. Loved the neckline so much I used it on another sweater I made. Love being able to get free patterns from your site. Thank you!

i cant find the pattern can someone help me please

I cannot find it either? Does anybody want to share it Thanks

the pattern is on this page with the photo

Can anybody help me with the abbreviations? I love this top. I live in Hungary, and I can knit quite well, but i do not understand the signs K1, K2, etc. I'd be very thankful if somebody helped me.

These are standard knitting abbreviations when patterns are written in english. They stand for knit 1, knit 2. There are several standard abbreviations chart available online, printing a copy of one so you can use patterns written in english may benefit you, until you can memorize them.

Would anyone be interested in knitting one for me? I would sure pay for it, maybe 2 of them? I knit a little, mostly quilt, but with the arthiritis I have in my hands it would take until next year to get it done :) anyone interested please contact me timberlinephotos@hotmail.com and thank you very much. This is just beautiful!

I've made 2 of these already. 1 in a size M and 1 in a size L. Both turned out awesome! And using the caron naturally spa yarn is really the key to having this tunic turn out! So soft and drapes really well!br br I emailed you Timberlinephotos from my business account - qualityhandknits @ gmail. com.br br I look forward to working out something with you!

I need help please with row 3 of the back? What does "ending last rep at **, k2 - 183 sticthes mean?. Also, can't seem to come out with the proper number of stitches for the end of row 1 and 2. I've restarted twice now. UGGGH!

You should have 2 stitches left over after repeating the pattern across the row. Knit the last 2 stitches to end the row. Hope this helps

Could someone please clarify one abbreviation in the directions? In the body pattern, row 1 between the yo and k4 is ssk. What is ssk? Thanks

slip, slip, knit these 2 stitches together -- a decrease

FINALLY! a TANK TOP FOR MY MENOPAUSE BODY! thank you!!

@Lynnie if ypour not sure take the pattern to ur yarn shop, im sure they could help u find a substitute cotton yarn to use, it depends on what is available there, but Patons is a good reliable yarn hope you succeed to knit this top GL

I think this Top is fabulous, very sexy and very smart. Can be knitted in several colors for all occassions. I live in Johannesburg South Africa, can anyone recommend an similas Yarn that I can use here. Got to have this Top, thank you, Lynnie

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