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How to Knit a Sweater: 7 Free Sweater Patterns

Dress yourself for cold winter weather with this collection of stylish knit sweaters. You'll find sweaters for men and women all within the pages of this FREE eBook!

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Cable Knit Dog Sweater

Keep your four-legged friend warm this winter in the Cable Knit Dog Sweater. Stylish and cozy, this DIY dog sweater is great for doggy play dates, strolls through the park, burying bones in the backyard, and catching some Z's on the couch. Put the Cable Knit Dog Sweater and a juicy bone under the tree this year. You'll know it's is the perfect gift by Fido's wagging tail. Woof woof, and happy knitting!

Intermediate

Knitting Needle Size7 or 4.5 mm, Circular Knitting Needles, Double-Pointed Knitting Needles (DPNs)

Yarn Weight(4) Medium Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches)

Materials:

  • RED HEART® Super Saver®: 1 (1, 1, 2, 3) skeins 0313 Aran
  • Susan Bates® Knitting Needles: 4.5 mm [US 7] straights AND 4.5 mm [US 7] set of double-pointed needles OR 16” (40 cm) circular needle
  • Cable needle
  • Stitch markers
  • Stitch holder
  • Yarn needle


GAUGE: 16 sts = 4” (10 cm); 26 rows = 4” (10 cm), in Moss stitch. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size needles to obtain the gauge.

Directions are for size X-Small. Changes for sizes Small, Medium, Large, and X-Large are in parentheses


Finished Chest: 13 (15, 19, 27, 33)” [33 (38,
48.5, 68.5, 84) cm]
Finished Length: 12 (16, 20, 24, 28)” [30.5
(40.5, 51, 61, 71) cm], including neckband


Special Stitches
2/2 LC (2 over 2 Left Cross) = Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
2/2 RC (2 over 2 Right Cross) = Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
3/3 LC (3 over 3 Left Cross) = Slip next 3 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k3, then k3 from cable needle.
3/3 RC (3 over 3 Right Cross) = Slip next 3 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k3, then k3 from cable needle.
kfb (knit into front and back) = Knit next st but do not remove from needle, knit into back loop of same st and remove from needle.
ssk (slip, slip, knit) = Slip next two stitches as if to knit to right needle, insert point of left needle through front of sts, knit these sts together through back loop.


Pattern Stitches
1x1 Rib (over odd number of sts)
Row 1 (right side): K1, *p1, k1; repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts to end of row.
Repeat Row 2 for 1x1 Rib.


2x2 Rib (multiple of 4 sts + 2)
Row 1 (right side): K2, *p2, k2; repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 2x2 Rib.


Moss Stitch (multiple of 2 sts)
Row 1 (right side): *K1, p1; repeat from * to end of row.
Rows 2 and 3: *P1, k1; repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1–4 for Moss st.


Right Twist Cable (over 6 sts)
Row 1 (right side): Knit.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: 3/3 RC.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 6: Purl.
Repeat Rows 1–6 for Right Twist Cable.


Left Twist Cable (over 6 sts)
Row 1 (right side): Knit.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: 3/3 LC.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 6: Purl.
Repeat Rows 1–6 for Left Twist Cable.


Honeycomb (over 8 sts)
Row 1 (right side): Knit.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: 2/2 RC, 2/2 LC.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: 2/2 LC, 2/2 RC.
Row 8: Purl.
Repeat Rows 1–8 for Honeycomb.

Notes
1. Sweater is made in two pieces: back and chest (underside).
2. Back and chest are worked back and forth in rows beginning at lower edge.
3. The two pieces are then joined and the neck band worked in rounds beginning at the top of the two pieces.
4. Edges of back and chest are seamed leaving openings for front legs.


BACK
With straight needles, cast on 58 (66, 74, 98, 114) sts.
Work in 2x2 Rib until piece measures about 1½ (2, 2½, 2½, 2½)” [4 (5, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5) cm], end with a wrong side row.


Begin Patterns
Note: Take care when setting up the Moss st sections. Notice that one section of Moss st begins with Row 1 of the pattern, and the other section begins with Row 3.
Row 1 (right side): K2, place marker, work Row 1 of Moss st over next 4 (8, 12, 24, 32) sts, place marker, k1, p1, place marker, work Row 1 of Right Twist Cable over next 6 sts, place marker, p1, k1, p1, place marker, work Row 1 of Honeycomb over next 24 sts, place marker, p1, k1, p1, place marker, work Row 1 of Left Twist Cable over next 6 sts, place marker, p1, k1, place marker, work Row 3 of Moss st over next 4 (8, 12, 24, 32) sts, place marker, k2.
Note: Markers indicate the beginning and end of each of the pattern stitch sections. Slip markers as you come to them. Use of markers in this manner is optional.
Row 2: P2, work Row 4 of Moss st to next marker, p1, k1, work Row 2 of Left Twist Cable to next marker, k1, p1, k1, work Row 2 of Honeycomb to next marker, k1, p1, k1, work Row 2 of Right Twist Cable to next marker, k1, p1, work Row 2 of Moss st to next marker, p2.
Row 3: K2, work next row of Moss st to next marker, k1, p1, work next row of Right Twist Cable to next marker, p1, k1, p1, work next row of Honeycomb to next marker, p1, k1, p1, work next row of Left Twist Cable to next marker, p1, k1, work next row of Moss st to next marker, k2.
Row 4: P2, work next row of Moss st to next marker, p1, k1, work next row of Left Twist Cable to next marker, k1, p1, k1, work next row of Honeycomb to next marker, k1, p1, k1, work next row of Right Twist Cable to next marker, k1, p1, work next row of Moss st to next marker, p2.
Repeat last 2 rows, working next row of each pattern between markers, until piece measures about 10½ (14, 17½, 21½, 25½)” [26.5 (35.5, 44.5, 54.5, 65) cm] from beginning. Place all stitches on stitch holder.


CHEST (underside)
With straight needles, cast on 21 (23, 31, 41, 49) sts.
Work in 1x1 Rib until piece measures about 3½ (4½, 5½, 7, 8½)” [9 (11.5, 14, 18, 21.5) cm] from beginning, end with a wrong side row.
Decrease Row (right side): K1, ssk, work in 1x1 Rib to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—19 (21, 29, 39, 47) sts.
Next Row: P2, work in 1x1 Rib to last 2 sts, p2.
Repeat last 2 rows 6 (7, 11, 16, 20) more times, end with a wrong side row—7 sts remain.


Join Back and Chest for Neckband
Change to circular needle or double-pointed needles to work in rounds.
Joining Round (right side): Working across remaining chest sts, k1, p2, kfb, p2, slip last st onto holder with back sts; working across sts on holder, ssk, k1, *p2, k2; repeat from * across to last 4 sts, p2, k1, knit the last st and the first st of this round together to join piece into a round—64 (72, 80, 104, 120) sts.
Next Round: *P2, k2; repeat from * around.
Repeat last round until neckband measures about 1½ (2, 2½, 2½, 2½)” [4 (5, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5) cm].
Bind off in pattern.


FINISHING
Sew edges of back and chest together beginning at neckband and sewing to where shaping of chest begins. Leave 2 (2½ 3, 4, 5)” [5 (6.5, 7.5, 10, 12.5) cm] open for leg opening then finish sewing side edges of back and chest together. Weave in ends.


ABBREVIATIONS
k = knit
k2tog = knit next 2 sts together
p =purl
st(s) = stitch(es)

 

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Hi all, what size would i do to knit this for a sydney silky terrier. Thank you in advance.

Hi Lorraine! If your Sydney Silky Terrier is average in size for his or her breed, I would suggest a size small or medium, but I recommend measuring your pup before beginning and using the "finished chest" and "finished length" portions of this pattern to be sure. Perhaps someone else has knit this for the same kind of dog already and can comment? -Editors of AllFreeKnitting

Hi, Please can someone help. Where the pattern says "Repeat last 2 rows, working next row of each pattern between markers, until piece measures about 10 (14, 17, 21, 25) 26.5 (35.5, 44.5, 54.5, 65) cm from beginning. Place all stitches on stitch holder." Am i meant to keep repeating row 34 from the 'begin pattern' section until my piece reaches the correct length, OR am i meant to repeat rows 34, then do rows 1, 2, 3, 4, 3, 4 until it reaches the right size? Thanks in advance!

Love this pattern

The best pattern, love it so much I have knitted about 30 of them

Wanted to add picture

I really love this website however, please get rid of all the "ads" that constantly run while this site is open. These ads use so much RAM that my computer runs too slowly to enjoy your site. even eliminating many of the background programs running on the computer don't help.

Help, I'm at a standstill. I've finished the "back" piece and the instructions say to place it on a stitch holder. Do I finish this piece and cut the yarn or start the "chest" piece. With new yarn. Thanks mickey

Hi Ladyblue, from the looks of it leave the stitches on a stitch holder and start the chest piece with new yarn. Then when the chest piece is to the final row you will put the back piece on circular needles, then the back piece on the same circular needle, making one piece when start the neckline rows. You go across the back on the circular needle then the chest as if they are one piece. After the neckband is done they show to sew the chest to the back like this --Sew edges of back and chest together beginning at neckband and sewing to where shaping of chest begins. Leave 2 (2 3, 4, 5) 5 (6.5, 7.5, 10, 12.5) cm open for leg opening then finish sewing side edges of back and chest together.--- I hope that helps as it is a nice little sweater for some of those dogs with less coats to keep them warm.

Need to be able to download a PDF.

Hi pamjlee, You can find this pattern as a downloadable PDF on the Red Heart website here: http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/cabled-dog-sweater Hope this helps! -Editors of AllFreeKnitting

Thank you so much for the free Cabled dog sweater, very clear and easy pattern to follow, looks fab and s sizing was perfect x x x

I Am so disappointed that I can not receive CREATIVE_ Knitting in South Africa or on my email as i do get FREE KNITTING sent via my email Many Thanks Have a lovely day Hazel Gietzmann

First time I have ever cabled or done anything other then knit and purl . Pattern was clear easy to follow fits a frenchie perfectly in the chest.

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