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Rustic Stripes Poncho

Say hello to style in the Rustic Stripes Poncho. This gorgeous knit poncho pattern is a wonderful way to create a warm, functional garment without dealing with the hassles of a knit sweater pattern. A good knit poncho pattern will satisfy your craving for comfort while offering you a polished finish. This practical wardrobe staple is sure to become your go-to garment for casual football games as well as fancy patio parties.

Easy

Knitting Needle Size10 or 6 mm, Circular Knitting Needles

Yarn Weight(5) Bulky/Chunky (12-15 stitches for 4 inches)

Materials

  • Patons® Shetland Chunky (100 g/3.5 oz;136 m/148 yds)
    Main Color (MC) (03042 Charcoal) 6 balls
    Contrast A (03532 Deep Red) 4 balls
    Contrast B (03608 Mustard) 4 balls
    Contrast C (03008 Aran) 4 balls
    Contrast D (03430 Wine) 4 balls
  • Size 6 mm (U.S. 10) circular knitting needle 90 cm long or size needed to obtain tension.

 

 

GAUGE
16 sts and 29 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] in pat.
 


Measurements = One Size; To fit bust measurement 32 to 38 ins [81 to 97 cm].

 

 

Stitch Glossary
Sl1P = with yarn at back of work, slip next st purlways.

 

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Make 2 pieces alike.

 

With MC, cast on 105 sts. Do not join. Working back and forth across needle in rows, proceed as follows:
Work 3 rows garter st (knit every row) noting that first row is WS and inc 8 sts evenly across last row. 113 sts.

 

Proceed in pat as follows:
1st row: (RS). With A, knit.
2nd row: With A, purl.
3rd row: With B, K1. *Sl1P. K1. Rep from * to end of row.
4th row: With B, K1. *Sl1P. K1. Rep from * to end of row.
5th row: With B, knit.
6th row: With B, purl.
7th row: With C, K2. Sl1P. *K1. Sl1P. Rep from * to last 2 sts. K2.
8th row: With C, P1. K1. *Sl1P. K1. Rep from * to last st. P1.
9th row: With C, knit.
10th row: With C, purl.
11th row: With D, as 3rd row.
12th row: With D, as 4th row.
13th row: With D, knit.
14th row: With D, purl.
15th row: With MC, as 7th row.
16th row: With MC, as 8th row.
17th row: With MC, knit.
18th row: With MC, purl.
19th row: With A, as 3rd row.
20th row: With A, as 4th row.
21st row: With A, knit.
22nd row: With A, purl.
23rd row: With B, as 7th row.
24th row: With B, as 8th row.
25th row: With B, knit.
26th row: With B, purl.
27th row: With C, as 3rd row.
28th row: With C, as 4th row.
29th row: With C, knit.
30th row: With C, purl.
31st row: With D, as 7th row.
32nd row: With D, as 8th row.
33rd row: With D, knit.
34th row: With D, purl.
35th row: With MC, as 3rd row.
36th row: With MC, as 4th row.
37th row: With MC, knit.
38th row: With MC, purl.
39th row: With A, as 7th row.
40th row: With A, as 8th row.
These 40 rows form stripe pat.

 

Cont in stripe pat for a further 61 rows.
Next row: (WS). With A, purl dec 8 sts evenly across. 105 sts.

 

With MC, work 3 rows garter st. Cast off knitways. (WS).

 

Side Edging: With RS of work facing, pick up and knit 55 sts along left side edge. Sew right side edge of first piece to top of second piece. Sew right side edge of second piece to top of first piece.

 

Drawstring: Cut 2 strands of MC 72 ins [183 cm] long. With both strands tog hold one end and with someone holding other end, twist strands to the right until they begin to curl. Fold the 2 ends tog and tie in a knot so they will not unravel. The strands will now twist themselves tog. Adjust length if desired.
Weave drawstring through neck edge having ends meet at center front as illustrated. Sew one tassel to each end of drawstring.

 

Tassel: Cut a piece of cardboard 3½ ins [9 cm] wide. Wind MC around cardboard 12 times. Break yarn leaving a long end and thread end through a needle. Slip needle through all loops and tie tightly. Remove cardboard and wind yarn tightly around loops ¾ inch [2 cm] below fold. Fasten securely. Cut through rem loops and trim ends evenly.

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Tried this craft? What did you think?

I have often seen crochet that looks like it was knitted, but this is one of the few times that I have seen knitting that looks like it was crocheted. 22 balls of yarn does seem excessive given the size of this poncho, but I can see how it could happen. I have made ponchos that turned out to cost me a lot more than I hoped simply because of my yarn choice. The balls of yarn didnt have much to them, so I had to buy a lot of them.

It is a lot, and I think part of the problem is every color will have a sizable portion left over. When I do colorwork, I usually buy an extra skein for each color to make sure I don't have to try to find the same dye lot if I run short. It is possible that those extras are built into this pattern as well. 3catslove is also right about the yarn weight. Often fat yarn = a huge amount of skeins. To put it in perspective, I just finished a shawl with lace weight yarn that took almost 800 yards, but I only had to buy one skein of lace weight yarn to do it, because the one skein had 1000 yards. I hope this helps. For what it is worth, should you decide to do this pattern it should work up very quickly, and if you decide to do the piece in one color or a self-striping, you could probably knock off a good six skeins since you won't have to worry about running out of a single color.

22 balls of yarn for a poncho? Seems excessive to me.

The problem why you need so many balls of yarn is that it's a chunky weight yarn, so in the ball of it you don't get very much yardage (148 yards for this brand). So you won't get many rows out of each ball. Then just times 22 by the cost of a ball and it's outside the budget of a lot of people.

I don't think you understand my comment.

I like the style of this poncho, the drawstring is so cute. The only thing I would change is the colorway, to make it more of a gradient and not so bold. I've never knitted a poncho and it looks so easy, just two pieces seamed together.

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